Lets assume that the correct shaft/lie/loft/swing-weight variables are fit perfectly to a player's Stroke. Pros and Cons of going with the blade versus a more "game improvement" type of iron?
It just seems that we discuss so much about precision alignments and the importance of sustaining compression that may be it would make sense at least from a training perspective to use a blade . . . if just for feeback.
Seems like the hands could be get a "masters degree" education with feedback from a blade. But I guess the flipside is this game is hard enough as it is.
It just seems that we discuss so much about precision alignments and the importance of sustaining compression that may be it would make sense at least from a training perspective to use a blade . . . if just for feeback.
Thoughts?
Exactly why I purchased blades a few years back. I found a good clean practice set of MP14's, 2-PW and told myself if I could master the set, I could probably play anything.
It took me about a week before they found a permanent home in my bag. I love the feel, and that is a very subjective word. I can feel the clubhead weight and roll around the sweet spot better than anything else I've tried. The legendary cold day mishits give me a pause. Mishit feedback is not only felt but heard. The flip side is sweet spot compression where the feedback is sublime.
Now that the chrome and nickle is worn through to the copper in nickle-sized circles, I'm considering the next thing...
The flip side is sweet spot compression where the feedback is sublime.
Now that the chrome and nickle is worn through to the copper in nickle-sized circles, I'm considering the next thing...
Bagger
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't do it man! Those nickle circles are your "badge of courage and honor." Keep those clubs in the bag. You earned those circles.
I play blades...even my 2 iron. Gotta have the feedback, and I don't think they're that much harder to hit than some of the other non-blades I've played. I bought my first set of blades almost 2 years ago - a beat up set of MP14's...best set of clubs I've ever owned.
When the majority of the tour is using CAVITY BACKS, so should you! Simple as that. There are so few many TRUE BALDES in play is ridiculous. Plus the "blades" of today are nothing like the blades of yester years. They are basically game improvement muscle backs.
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I'm not a TGM or PGA certified Pro, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night
I have played everything from Callys to Clevelands to Hogans, and I have stuck with an old set of Hogan Directors, circa 1985, 2-pw (3-gap in todays lofts), and they are wonderful! They are about as blade as you can get, but I find 'em easier to hit than anything I've ever owned. Go figure.
When the majority of the tour is using CAVITY BACKS, so should you! Simple as that. There are so few many TRUE BALDES in play is ridiculous. Plus the "blades" of today are nothing like the blades of yester years. They are basically game improvement muscle backs.
Agreed that the blades of today are not even close to the same as older models.
Case in point - the difference between my FG-17's and Mac 1025M's. They may 'look' like they would play about the same, but the difference in better feel vs forgiveness (respectively) is dramatic and obvious.
That said, I'd still take the 1025's over any true cavity back because there is more feel. The 'mid point' of the spectrum IMO.
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"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
If you play blades and truly SCORE BETTER WITH THEM compared to Cavity backs (you must've tried a set) then keep playing them.
HOWEVER
If your scores are inconsistent with the blades due to mishits/missed greens/etc, you should probably be playing some form of cavity back AT LEAST in the long/mid irons....from 6 or 7 on up, blades work great.
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I'm not a TGM or PGA certified Pro, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night
I have played everything over the years from butter knife blades to cavity back graphite shafted clubs. It seems to me, if you can get you right forearm on plane you can hit anything. I currently play a 1956 set of Spalding "syncrodyned" irons--2 thru 9. I did bore them out and install 6.5 rifle shafts. they are the softest irons I have ever played. I am not gifted by any means, but playing the blades has only helped my game.